Just 40 years ago, a meal out for the family usually signaled a special occasion. Mom and Dad might order a larger steak than usual; the kids would have the inevitable hamburgers and French fries. Restaurant selections focused on meat entrees, and even the lighter fish entrees were usually served in rich sauces and butter. Any nutritional concerns were easily satisfied by eating the iceberg lettuce salad or the peas or carrots that added color to the dinner plate; if diners were concerned about dropping a few extra pounds, they could opt to skip the chocolate cake for dessert. "This Northern European culinary tradition--heavy on meat and cheese and short on fruit and vegetables--was mostly unhealthy," says Walter Willett, Department of Nutrition chair at the Harvard School of Public Health and professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School. "One of the biggest phenomena in the last 10 to 20 years is the popularity of the Mediterranean diet that focuses on fruit and vegetables, olive oil for cooking, and smaller portions of meat. Now we can select foods that are interesting and enjoyable--but also nutritious."

The trend to eat healthy coincides with America's passion to eat out or bring home prepared foods--up to four nights a week, according to recent studies. Long hours at work and busy schedules leave adults little time for preparing complicated dinners. In response, many restaurant owners feel a growing obligation to serve food that is delicious and nutritionally sound. "I've followed research in nutrition for years," says Roger Berkowitz, president and CEO of Legal Sea Foods, a Boston-based corporation with 20 restaurants nationwide. "Since more people are dining out regularly, all of us at Legal Sea Foods felt a strong responsibility to provide the consumer with food choices that enhance their health rather than increase their risk for developing heart disease or cancer." As a result, in 1997 Berkowitz decided to eliminate trans fatty acids from his cooking oil. Trans fats result from the process of turning liquid plant oils into solids like margarine through the hydrogenation process; foods high in trans fats, like most commercial baked goods and fried foods in restaurants, have been implicated in raising cholesterol levels and contributing to increased risk of cardiovascular disease.

Berkowitz had his chefs switch from frying fish in partially hydrogenated oil to a healthier combination of oils that is not as easily absorbed--a major step in a competitive industry where customer loyalty is often based on the consistent flavor of their favorite dishes. He noted with relief that "the blend of soy and grapeseed actually had a higher flavor rating, as well as being healthier." The company has also negotiated with Nabisco to develop a trans fat-free oyster cracker since Legal Sea Foods customers consume about 900,000 pounds of them each year. The restaurants' commitment to eliminating trans fats is explained on each menu. "As money shifts from home cooking to prepared meals and restaurant dining, chefs in the food industry need to be on the vanguard of selecting healthy ingredients and educating the consumer," says Berkowitz.

Once the consumer is educated, however, a new set of challenges emerge. "Undergraduate students here at Harvard are very savvy customers," says Michael Miller, campus executive chef at Harvard University Dining Services. "They want to know the nutritional details of their food selections, and they want healthy options." In response, for the last five years, menus in the dining halls carry all the nutritional information found on food labels. Miller also meets regularly with students to hear their concerns. Based on these suggestions, chicken has been the preferred meat entrŽe for the last five to six years, although a trend to greater beef consumption has begun in the last year. However, students are also more willing to eat "analog" vegetarian items like soy burgers and hot dogs, and vegetarian selections are offered at every meal. "Our students want to be healthy, but they don't want to give up their chicken fingers and French fries, which we still serve at lunch every day," says Miller. "Sometimes they just prefer to be in denial when they crave their comfort foods."

Food selections from around the globe have become another trend in American eating, according to Nora Pouillon, chef and owner of Restaurant Nora and Asia Nora. "In France, you get French food; in Italy, Italian food--but in America you get dishes that have been modified in imaginative ways from all over the world. It's the most wonderful, exciting time for food in America's history." A growing interest in organic foods is part of America's culinary leadership, says Pouillon, who first introduced organic dining in her Washington, D.C., restaurant 21 years ago. A native Austrian, she was appalled at how food was grown and prepared in this country. When she started a catering business, she wanted to use "clean" ingredients--foods processed without additives, vegetables grown without pesticides, and animals that had not been pumped with antibiotics and hormones. Pouillon soon learned to seek out farmers who didn't, in her words, "force things against nature." By the time she opened her restaurant in 1979, she had developed a zealous commitment to seasonal, organic ingredients for healthy, well-balanced meals without hidden sugars or fat. She adds that since Restaurant Nora is the first certified organic restaurant in the country, genetically engineered foods are also prohibited. "I thought I would quickly convert the whole Washington area to clean food," says Pouillon, but it took her 21 years to see a substantial change in consumer awareness. She estimates that about a third of the American population is willing to seek out organic products, mainly because they taste better and don't contribute to the growing pollution of air, water, and food sources associated with traditional farming methods.

And what can we expect Americans to eat in the next five to ten years? Pouillon firmly predicts that all of our food ingredients will be organic. Miller notes Harvard students will probably be even more informed--but still request French fries for lunch. Berkowitz feels restaurant chefs will take even greater responsibility to incorporate the latest nutrition research findings into menu selections. Walter Willett concludes that trans fat labeling is "inevitable" and that both consumers and baking companies will eventually switch to healthier cooking oils and whole-grain alternatives. He cautions, however, that while well-educated, highly informed consumers are making healthier food choices, fast food is still a staple for a significant part of the population that is also less inclined to exercise and to stop smoking. "Mortality data indicates that there is a growing gap between populations in our culture," says Willett. "We must commit to help all Americans to take advantage of the health advances in nutrition."

Gabriele Amersbach